Grains of Sand

Labor Day in the Hamptons- intended to be the last weekend of summer- is a time to swim,  sun, picnic, party and "be seen"- is also a time of crowds, hideous traffic and bemoaning the change of season.

I felt so clever, opting to head "out" to Bermuda for the holiday- even after I boarded,  to hear the Captain advise us- in a lamenting tone- "Ladies and Gentlemen, we are now 10th in line for take off".

I looked out the window to see one jet after another, as far as the eye could see- on the never-ending taxiway. Yet, in short order, I was happy to wave goodbye to the twenty jets waiting for take off behind us. The glass was half full.

As I snapped a quick photo of Long Island, as it faded away, I noticed the thick density of the population, so evident from the air. A native of the East End of the Island, I relish open space. Knowing that I was leaving the congestion of Long Island made my arrival in Bermuda even sweeter.

My flight was quick and flawless, with the exception of the descent, during which we were advised that we might be "hitting some weather." This was the first time my mind wandered to 'The Bermuda Triangle', while on an aircraft. Turns out, we had a smooth landing- quite "lovely", as they would say in Bermuda. 

The winds carried us swiftly across the sea; we arrived only ten minutes late. As the only arriving flight, Customs and Baggage was a breeze. 


Headed out to the curb, I found a sweet cab driver in turquoise Bermuda shorts (and matching knee highs) to escort me to the supermarket to buy some provisions. The beauty of staying at Salt Kettle House is having a home, with a kitchen. It makes life leisurely.

Having only had a couple of hours to decompress from NY, I found myself approaching the check out lady at Lindo's without a formal greeting- to ask her if she was the "express line". "GOOD AFTERNOON", she said, a wee bit sternly- avoiding my inquiry. 

I felt badly. What had happened to my manners in the two short months I had been at home?! I had to take a breath and remember where I was... Here in Bermuda, one does not address another, without a greeting- whether it be a salutation or a name. It is improper to begin a conversation abruptly, contrary to what often occurs in the U.S.

Summer in the Hamptons has an impact on the mood of the local residents- one's inner levels of patience and tolerance can be depleted by Labor Day. I wonder if that happens here too. I will certainly be able to notice, and empathize.

I arrived at Salt Kettle, hoping to impress John with the fact that I had only brought one suitcase this time. I had been the subject of a bit of mockery from various folks on my last trip, due to the extent of my baggage! Yet, in my defense, I was here for one whole month, last time. I felt justified (although quite encumbered) by all of my necessities!

This time, I departed home, confident that I was a savvy "light traveler". I had the perfect amount of "stuff" for 10 days. I got to JFK in the wee hours of the morning. The Delta check-in agent hurled my bag onto the scale. I felt satisfied with myself, having pre-paid for the bag, online.

The agent looked at me, with shock in his voice, "Ma'am! This bag is 80 pounds!!" 

My jaw hit the counter.

He said, "Would you like to take anything out of this suitcase, and put it somewhere else?" I said, "Put it where?!?!" 

He said, "That will be one hundred dollars."

So much for maintaining appearances...Now, I must venture to a thrift shop to buy another suitcase, to avoid paying $135 for my bag to get home! 

It seemed to be a "live and learn" travel tip morning. Note to self: when you are waking up at 5am for an early flight, and will be consuming an estimated 3-4 cups of coffee before your flight, do NOT wear the longest, fluffiest, most buoyant, WHITE prairie skirt on any aircraft... I could barely fit my skirt in the loo, and I hate to think about everything it 'skirted'.

John was out on an errand when I arrived at Salt Kettle, so I settled into my favorite room, and indulged in the air conditioning. Spending time in air conditioning has become a favorite pastime of mine here (ha!). 

The weather here, like New York, is in the 80's, but the humidity is in excess of 70%, so going outdoors feels like a steam bath, a free spa treatment- my pores are so very... happy?

I contemplated venturing to Hamilton, but soon noticed a flyer for The Bermuda Sandcastle Contest on the sideboard in the dining room; it was today. I decided to take a nap, dress for dinner, dine at the Lighthouse (best welcome to Bermuda) and then take in the sandcastles at sunset.

When my cab driver arrived, I soon discovered he was familiar to me from our Easter vacation. We had a great chat on our way to Southampton, during which I learned that he is the Engineer on the tugboat "Faithful". Bermuda has three working tugs, which do an incredible service to these islands. When I told him of the reason for my trip this time, he was quite surprised and intrigued. 

I will travel out with the 'branch pilots' on Wednesday, to chronicle how they navigate cruise ships to shore. He told me that his tug will be involved in the process, and to give him a big wave, when I arrive in Dockyard.

As usual, I was the first diner to arrive at The Dining Room. The name of this restaurant amuses me a bit, because it is a spectacular place with a very non-assuming name. (We have a restaurant in Sag Harbor called The Beacon- and they do not have a lighthouse on their property...)

I enjoyed my supper immensely, not failing to photograph my chardonnay- as usual. My wine glass is well-traveled. It is quite strange, how we snap picks of drinks and food nowadays. They evoke memories of delicious times.

Over dinner, I chatted with a warm couple from Boston on their seventh trip to Bermuda. We exchanged our favorite places and things to do. They have found a secret spot from which to collect old discarded bottles- left behind by history. We chatted about sea glass, and Bermuda's "sea glass" beaches. At home, sea glass is a true find, as it is here. 

After dinner, I was weary, but Horseshoe Bay beckoned me. I could not be so close, and not take in the wonders made of sand. Although tired from my long day, it was one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had in ages.

The beach was nearly cleared out. Some folks were packing up from the day, as it was about 8pm. Many kids were still enjoying the water, which apparently was nearly 90 degrees!!

I walked the length of the beach, admiring every creation. There was no indication of which ones had been prize winners, and that was just fine. I preferred looking at them all without any judgement.

Entrants wowed me- the unicorn with fluffy eyelashes, the replica of Bermuda- with her landmarks represented, the shout out for gay pride, mythical creatures, the tribute to Aretha Franklin, and of course the full array of sea creatures.

Strolling down the sand, sandals in hand, I became enamored by the demonstrable reverence for sea life.There was a hammerhead shark, a great white, a dolphin, sea turtles, starfish, a hermit crab, a blue crab, a squid, and naturally a mermaid. 

I wished that I had made a sand castle, and pondered what I would have made. Memories came back to me of the annual sandcastle contest in Amagansett. I wonder if that still remains a tradition?

On the way back, along the crescent pink beach, the sun was nearly down. I walked in the surf, never having felt such warm ocean water.  I hopped in a taxi home, and had a nice conversation with a lady cab driver who was familiar to me. The island is getting smaller.

When I returned to Salt Kettle, John was watching tennis. I shared my surprise at how warm the ocean water was, still- at 8:30 pm. He quickly flipped to the weather channel to check the water temperature. "This isn't good", he told me. "Why?" "Because warm ocean water generates hurricanes." 

I thought about how the hot ocean temperature would impact the sea life. Since I have been here, I have learned that the warmth of the ocean can destroy the protective reefs around Bermuda- leaving it unprotected against storm waves. 

When in Bermuda, nature comes to the forefront of your consciousness. You spare water. You recycle. You respect minnows that swim past you in the sea. When you have an opportunity to honor a creature in pink sand, you do it.

I felt grateful to have ended my day with my feet in the powdery sand, admiring creations by young and old- all of which gave me faith in humanity and the simplicity of life. 

So many of the best things in life are indeed free.