Fifty-one Shades of Blue

This morning, the atmosphere at Salt Kettle shifted quite a bit for me, as my new dear friends- sisters Dudley and Edwina- were due to go home. Suzie, Jane and I sat with them on the patio of their waterfront cottage, discussing our anticipation of The Royal Wedding, and our opinions about Meghan and Harry- did they choose properly?

We all agreed, that Harry was overdue for a big public display, since he likely will not be wearing the crown during his lifetime. We will celebrate the wedding here, in real time- as a British Crown Colony should. Hats, champagne and treats would be necessary.

I have been observing, since my arrival, that the operation of a guest house is quite challenging! 

Turnover is random; many folks can depart at once- leaving a lot to do. Flights arrive and leave at all hours of the day- because they come from different countries (primarily U.S., Canada and U.K.). 

There is always tidying, and certainly always laundry. Plus, feeding Pickles (the cat) and the adorable heron (who has a few names).

The Lowe siblings embody their mother's legacy. In her style, they greet everyone that arrives personally- in order to introduce them to Bermuda, and welcome them to Salt Kettle.

Operating the guest house is the full-time role of John, because he lives on the property. John returns tonight from a wine tasting holiday in Hungary. 

Everyone who has been staying in the house speaks so highly of John. Those who have just missed him all said that it was so regretful!

As you might imagine, there are a lot of moving parts, here! Even though the guest house has a 95% return visit rate (so they know many of the guests), they are still guests, and must be tended to, as such. 

Following the send off, the house was auspiciously quiet, with the various check outs. Suzie and Janie were working on turnover tasks. There were only a few 'Salt Kettle ladies' in residence...

Feeling a touch of melancholy, I assessed the weather. If the breeze was just a gentle one, chances are it would be a beach day (no Portuguese Man-of-War). 

I headed for Elbow Beach in a taxi, to enjoy some solitude and reflection.

When I first came to Bermuda, back in 1994, my friend Donna and I stayed at Salt Kettle. Back then, you could go to the Elbow Beach Resort for the day, and pay for chairs and/or umbrellas, at a reasonable expense- as a visitor to their property. 

Oh, how things have changed! Lynn informed me that you can now buy a "day pass" for approximately $50 (!), which entitles you to lounge amongst the resort guests. 

Alternatively, if one does not need a chair or an umbrella, one you can walk a few feet down, to the public beach, and enjoy the same sea; this is my preference!

Elbow Beach is the closest South Shore beach to me now, and thus the least expensive taxi ride. As I am currently located on the harborside, I have to cross the island (a couple of miles wide) to get to the ocean. 

While Elbow is in the same parish as Salt Kettle, the walk would be a bit too much, especially in the heat. As I have mentioned, the roads are narrow, hilly and windy- and there are very few, token sidewalks- certainly not on the average lane.

I have amusing memories now (in hindsight) of walking to the beach in July and August, here in Bermuda- during FULL ON heat and humidity. 

On one trip, I was with Jim. I completely led him astray. I kept saying, "Don't worry! It's just around the corner!" "Don't worry! It's just over the hill!" "We're getting really close!" The poor, very-fair-skinned man! I had not analyzed the map, as I should have...OOPS.

I believe that one of the best experiences in Bermuda is dining at Mickey's Bistro at the Elbow Beach resort. The restaurant sits right on the sand, with unrivaled views of the ocean. The food is delicious. The service impeccable. Most importantly, it is surprisingly  affordable, if you play your cards right.

One can order lunch for under $20. and pay for an experience far more beneficial than weeks of psychotherapy. If you come for dinner, you have the option of ordering a half portion of pasta- which is cost effective. The best part of dinner is watching the sun go down over the ocean, while listening to the waves. It does not get much better than this.

Following my lunch of a parma ham, mozzarella, lettuce and tomato on ciabatta (taking half of it to go), I enjoyed a few crunchy French Fries, that reminded me of my friend, Donna. We always said that there was something about the ocean air that made French Fries part and parcel, when at Elbow Beach.

I changed into my suit, and left the resort, in order not to violate any trespassing rules.

Suzie and I had engaged in a very funny discussion about swimwear earlier. 

I had said that, as modest ladies 'mature', they tend to fall into the routine of buying swimsuits that offer more coverage. For example if you once wore a thong bikini back in the day, you might now select a 'swim dress'. 

Lands End has certainly made swim dresses accessible to the masses; they now produce (literal) dresses that you can wear into the sea. What activity warrants this... falling off a boat, during a cocktail hour?

At anyrate, we were chatting about humidity and lycra- a necessary, but lethal combination. 

I told Suzie that my fabulous Talbots swim dress had so many layers of lycra- with the slimming and fashionable ruching and a longer skirt- that I could not possible wear it for longer than is required! No suiting up for the beach at "home". 

I had also brought a "lesser" suit to Bermuda- a very colorful, splashy, frilly one. I hadn't worn it yet...

I told Suzie that I had been wearing my navy dot suit, so as not to draw attention to myself- yet I had a pretty outrageous, lighter weight suit, that was sitting in my suitcase. 


"People will notice me!", I told her. She said, without qualms, "You put that suit on today, and you own it, Dahhhling!" And so I did.

After my lunch, the sea was calling! I put on my outrageous ruffly suit, and did something I had never done. I wore it onto the beach, without a cover up, and sashayed down the shore, without a care in the world.

It was the perfect day to be at Elbow. The sea was calm and free of creatures (except silvery minnows). The waves were tiny. The humidity was a hair lower, and the breeze was present.

I think it was low tide, because two of the limestone rocks in front of me were uncovered by water. It was fun to watch people posing for photos on them, as if they had their own little volcanic islands to play on.

When I go into the sea here, I never want to get out. It mesmerizes me- the shades of blue (more than 50), the sound of the waves, the clarity of the water. For me, it is hypnotic.

The sun is hot in Bermuda, and it reflects off the water; one must be well slathered in sunblock, and not stay out too long. Typically, I go the beach between 3:00 and 5:00 pm, because it is just right- to avoid sunburn.

Today, I had to watch the clock, because I was due to go back to the Walk In Clinic (of all things) for a repeat Potassium test. I was feeling back to normal, but no more chances!

I dried off, called a cab, grabbed some necessities at Modern Mart, and went home to change in time to catch a late afternoon ferry.

As I headed up the hill to Hamilton Medical Center, my eyes were overtaken by a sign that read "Hand Made Sandals". Hmmm... What a craft!

I have never met a sandal that I did not like. Gazing in, I was delighted to see some sandals that are perfect for my Bermudian wedding! 

I regretted not having time to go in the shop called Della Valle, but it was probably for the best... if you gals know what I am saying! 

(By the way, I want the ones on the left...)

After my blood draw, I was tired. I just wanted to go home, and eat left overs. I hopped on the ferry and made the easy trip back to Salt Kettle. It is nice being the first stop, on certain runs.


I went out to the water, and looked at the sunset. My Heron friend and I discussed the absence of Edwina and Dudley. I missed seeing them on their porch. 

I texted a picture of the sunset to them, telling them that they were missed. 

Gazing out on the water, I thought about my new found appreciation for birds- greatly enhanced by this semi-tropical island. 

Who would have thought that I would ever fall in love with a heron?

A special thing about Bermuda for me, is that it enhances my appreciation of sights and sounds.

You cannot live here, without seeing the beauty that surrounds you- whether it be a single Nasturtium in the middle of a manicured hedge, a tiny little bird- that prefers to hop, rather than fly, jewel encrusted sandals, or the clouds that draw your eyes upward. 

All one must do, is look around...