Serendipity

Serendipity describes Bermuda for me. Delightful things can happen, without warning- as quickly as the weather moves over the island. Today was serendipitous!

I am staying at a gorgeous accommodation in Warwick parish, called Granaway Guest House. It dates back to 1734. My room is called "The Captain's Quarters", presumably because this is the vantage point from where I will steer my life, in the coming days. 

Although waiting until 9am for coffee is hard for me, it is worth the wait, to enjoy the splendor of full breakfast with silver, china, candlelight and soft jazz- not to mention the companionship of our hosts and fellow travelers. As someone who adores fine bone china, the Hungarian coffee cups on the table were the perfect start to my day. My host recalled that I was half Hungarian. "Just for you", she said. This china is vintage, and so... ME.

After breakfast, a bunch of us waited for the ferry to town. Due to mechanical issues ( a rarity, I think), it was running an hour late. We attempted to find a taxi that would fit 7 of us, but time ticked on. I joked that we could always "hitch a ride" (from another boat in the harbor), but the water lacked traffic. Several minutes later, out of the blue, Blake arrived. A nice young man, with a speedboat, who noticed that we appeared to be stranded. He pulled up his boat, and whisked us off to town.

First stop in town is always Dangelini's for a nice, cold drink. I decided that meandering around Hamilton would be my activity of the day, due to the clouds overhead. 

There are very few American shops in Hamilton. This is refreshing to a visitor's eye. I had always thought that Talbots would fit in seamlessly here- but it isn't so simple. Passing by Vineyard Vines, I noticed that they were operating in conjunction with A.S. Coopers- one of the last standing Bermuda department stores. Curious about the partnership, I struck up a conversation with the young saleswomen inside. I learned how outside retailers (i.e. from the U.S.) wind up in Bermuda (they must ally with a local company), as well as a list of the best thrift shops in Bermuda and the lowdown on the END TO END.

Years ago, when I was more of an athlete (ha ha!), The Bermuda End to End Charity Walk was on my 'bucket list'. I vowed to someday walk across the entire length of Bermuda. How odd for me, to randomly wind up on the island for the End to End; it is this weekend! The adventurer in me would love to tell my cardiologist that I was taking her advice (!) and that I had walked across the entire country of Bermuda, in one fell swoop. But, having recovered (at last) from a torn hip socket, I don't think my orthopedist would be as excited.  I can hear voices from home (i.e. Nina)..."Don't you dare!" 

As I walked past Queen Elizabeth Park, my thoughts drifted to my mom, as I encountered a huge patch of colorful impatiens. She would have approved of the choice (although taken out the red ones). There was a huge display, at the entrance to the park, featuring a triumphant Flora Duffy. She is the highly revered Bermudian athlete, who won the World Triathlon here last weekend. No lack of national pride for Flora!

To the left of me, I saw a courtyard restaurant, the vibe of which reminded me of New Orleans. Perhaps it was the humidity?  Suddenly, I was thirsty. I checked my watch. It was 12:15- proper etiquette to stop for a Rum Swizzle. I had a delicious cheeseburger too, with cole slaw made from red cabbage, cucumber, mango and cashews.  I asked the owner of the restaurant to explain the meaning behind the name of the place, BULLI SOCIAL. Apparently, "Bulli" is a term of endearment here in Bermuda, a way to address a buddy. Seated next to a tree with large hanging flowers, I inquired what the flowers were called. "Angel's trumpets", he said. Of course! A nod to Marlys...

After a bit of necessary shopping (bubble bath, Cadbury chocolate), I visited Brown and Company- a lovely store with cards and gifts that could easily prove dangerous for me. I popped upstairs to their cafe called GLAZE and ordered an iced coffee to sip overlooking Front Street. Iced coffee in hand, I read the labels on the carafes. The choices were: SKIM, HALF AND HALF and FRESH MILK. I joked with my server... wondering if the "fresh milk" had come straight from the cow? He said, in an accusatory tone, "You are a visitor!" Taken back, I said, "What do you mean?" He laughingly said, "There is no fresh milk on this island! We have (maybe) 5 cows for 70,000 people!" That amused me greatly.

Time to head back, by ferry. I was planning to meet up with a friend from East Hampton, who had arrived on the island via cruise ship. 

As I sat on a bench, waiting for the ferry, a nice Bermudian lady chatted with me. Conversation turned to the rain from the day before. "We needed it!", she said. In Bermuda, (FYI), rainwater is collected, off of the pristine white roofs, for drinking, bathing and household use. So when it rains, it is God's grace- filling the water tanks for personal consumption. Having taken a bubble bath in the morning, I began to reflect on the Bermudian way. "How long would it have to rain, to fill the bathtub?", I asked her. She thought on it. "Half a day", she said. Can you imagine such respect for water...?

Thankfully, the sun had now appeared. Stepping briefly into "Cruise Director" mode (an affectionate term used by my family when I help to plan Bermuda outings), I suggested to my girlfriend ( a first time visitor here), that we should eat dinner at the ocean- at Mickey's on Elbow Beach. But, wires got crossed. Personnel on her cruise ship advised her against taking a cab by herself (ludicrous advice and bad PR for Bermuda), and so it was... a table for one. Larry came to get me.

When we arrived at Elbow, there was a state car parked to our left. The driver, dressed in the uniform of the Bermuda Regiment, stepped out. Larry (a former educator) exchanged greetings with the young man. Larry had taught him in High School. He informed me that the fellow now drives The Premier of Bermuda. "The Premier is having dinner here, too???", I asked...

The leader of this beautiful little country was at the bar with associates and dignitaries from South Africa. As luck would have it, I was directed to a seat at the bar, immediately next to The Premier. I sipped my swizzle, and was amused by the bartender who asked The Premier if he would like "another juice box"?  In no time, his table was about to be seated. I tapped him on the shoulder, and asked if we might meet. 

I explained to The Premier that I was from New York, but wanted to live in Bermuda. He smiled and nodded, as if he had heard that line before, from countless other 'Shirley Valentines'. After all, who comes to Bermuda and wants to leave? When I told him that this was my 13th visit to Bermuda, and that I was writing a blog about my experiences, I had his attention.

The Premier said, "Well, if you are writing a blog, we had better take a picture!" He asked me whether I thought a selfie would do. We opted to have a waitress take our photo together- both "an official shot" and "a friendly shot", at his recommendation. He then wished me luck, and told me to make sure that I tag him in my blog!


As I sat down at the beach, dining under that stars, sipping chilled white wine and eating delicious pasta,  I felt so incredibly lucky. Just another day of serendipity, here in Bermuda.