Sass on a Bike

I cannot stress, how wonderful it is, to stay in a casual accommodation, wherein you meet fascinating people everyday. Back at home, one can go for long periods of time, without meeting any new people. How perfectly boring...

This morning, over coffee, I met the most fabulous lady, Leonora. A long time patron of Salt Kettle, and an honorary citizen of Bermuda (according to me), she has been here 36+ times!  I was seated at the dining room table writing, when I made her acquaintance. 

She was sadly on her way to the airport- ON A MOPED. The first thought that went through my mind was 'What a badass!" This is someone whose stories I would like to languish in.

We had little time together, which was so unfortunate. I immediately needed to know about her moped habit. 

Apparently, Leonora arrives in Bermuda, goes straight to the moped rental shop, and hops on a bike. Needing to pack very light, she travels with her orange suitcase to Salt Kettle, and spends the entire stay, cruising around the island- en plein air. As someone who looks back, with nostalgia, on the days when I was brave enough to ride a moped all over Bermuda, I just plain marveled at this lady's sass.

Unfortunately, Leonora was off to Boston, headed back to her coastal home. We immediately became Facebook friends, and hope to see each other again. Like many others at Salt Kettle, she is an avid traveler. This makes for fabulous conversation.

The "Salt Kettle rapport" is not incidental. It is generated by the home-like atmosphere and graciousness of the hosts, who make sure that everyone knows one another- by formal introduction. As a result, we have a dynamic, that is not unlike a family of guests. 

We have coffee in the morning together, get to know one another better, exchange plans for the day, and then we diverge, to take on individual activities. Once the sun sets, we have the option to reconvene, share tales, and enjoy each other's company.

I have become very fond of two sweet ladies- sisters who are here together- Dudley and Edwina. Both were raised in Bermuda, but now live in the U.S. Dudley is up here from New Orleans; Edwina down here from Connecticut. 

While Dudley made it a practice to come back to Bermuda regularly with her late husband, Edwina did not return for many many years- until last year. This year, they are together at last, back in Bermuda-making new memories, and reminiscing about the past. 

One breezy morning, we sat on their cottage patio, having coffee and discussing many different things- from the fear of public speaking to "eternal rest", here in Bermuda. 

I think there are no lack of spirits (including me), who wish to return to this island for permanent peace, when the time comes.

Edwina and Dudley talk about old Bermuda- the tales of their childhood, what their school uniforms looked like, the beach they used to play on, and the days when horses and buggies typified transportation. 

They recall the theater at Fort St. Catherine, and the major celebrities that used to come to Bermuda to act- Charlton Heston, for one. 

When I sit and listen to their tales of yesteryear, I want the tales to continue. I want to see their photo albums, know about their lives- all of it. 

Listening is so enjoyable and entertaining. We all need to take more time. 


I surmise that if we had a rainy day here, and we all stayed indoors to chat, I would likely have a 20 "page" blog entry!

Today, I got a late start, per my new internal island clock. I took a cab into town, having missed the last ferry of the morning. My destination was Devil's Isle Cafe- the sister restaurant to The Village Pantry in Flatts Village. Previous guests at Granaway had steered me there (thanks, Jeannie!).

Always afraid to play hit or miss with finding the right place to eat, I was so happy by the ambience that greeted me. The fact that the servers had black and white crisp gingham shirts on, did not hurt either.


I ordered a delicious lunch- a healthy bowl with greens,grains, veggies and fabulous roasted chicken on top. It was perfection.

As my meal came to an end, a couple from Greenwich, England was just being served, next to me. We struck up a conversation, and soon wound up exchanging contact information- this is what happens in Bermuda!

This was their first time here, so I was able to advise them on some of my favorite places. At first, they thought I resided here (if only!); they were taken back (as most locals are), when I tell them that I have been here twelve times. I gave them Larry's information- in case they wanted a tour, and made sure to tell them about other Daisy Valentine secrets.

I capped off lunch with a coffee purchase at the neighboring Devil's Isle coffee shop. Then, up the hill I went...


Over the past few days,I had been feeling the effects of the change in temperature weather a bit more than I had anticipated. 

The increase in temperature and humidity have actually made me short of breath- doing the most mundane activities. 

When I was here- just one month ago- it was idyllic, much drier weather. Suzie advised me that- since I went home- Bermuda decided to skip Spring; we are now in Summer. Coming from Long Island, 80 percent humidity simply kicks my a**.

In order not to jeopardize the length of my stay here, I made the decision to pop in to the Hamilton Medical Center in town- where I previously had been treated for Strep a few years ago. Essentially, it is like going to Wainscott Walk-In, except ohhhhh so very different! 

I met with a doctor who told me that he heard "decreased lung sounds" in my chest; this was a bit startling (despite the fact that he had been asking me about Stormy Daniels, while listening to my heart).  

Having cared for sweet Marlys, I actually hold an honorary degree in lung sounds. Details are very important. I could not figure out what could be going on. Although- my host, Suzie, told me that asthma in Bermuda can be wicked, especially with excessive pollen in the air. 

The doctor took some labs, to see if I had dehydration (not atypical in a place like this), and told me that he would like to run additional tests the following day.

When I left, he advised me not to drink too much alcohol. I had previously made him aware- albeit gently- that I was late for a cocktail party at my guest house (not a Pirate Party or a booze cruise).

Very aware that we were having this conversation in BERMUDA, he said, "Ok- have one drink. Make sure to drink 8 glasses of water a day, and stay in the cool air."

I ran to Goslings to fetch wine for the BYOB affair, back at the guest house. Luckily, I was able to catch the last ferry back. 

Upon arrival, there was such a pleasant sight in the front yard- a lovely cocktail party, that could have been thrown by my mom- and I was invited! I took a minute to freshen, rip off my bandaid from the blood draw, and change into a nice cool linen dress.

I observe, from the conversations that take place here, that people seem not to judge one another, but to fully respect each other's experiences and opinions. This is a kind of graciousness that has been frequently lost, on our shores.

Unlike home, where topics (particularly political ones) tend to polarize us, Bermudians seem to all be on the same side- and that hospitality is airborne, for visitors to absorb. People in Bermuda value each other- a lesson for humanity, and America during our tumultuous times.

Interestingly, at church on Sunday, I had spoken with a Bermudian gentleman, who talked about the internet and its impact on on our respective societies. 

I admitted that I loved to be away from the news, while in Bermuda- since too much of it is sensationalistic garbage. 

If I were having my last day on Earth, why should I care about Rudy Giuliani's strategy to delay Trump's exit?  

He shared with me that Bermudians tend not to "take on" adversity generated by cyber-bullies overseas. He said "We are just a tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic. Why would I care if someone in Bulgaria is mad at me?" 

There is a different vibe here, and it is palpable. 

The cocktail party lasted thru the dinner hour, with continuous conversation. As our numbers dwindled, we shared personal stories, and many laughs. I took heart in the experience of making new friends, during my time of grief. 

"Our" new guest, Emma from Sydney, Australia, enthusiastically volunteered to teach me paddle boarding- a very scary proposition... Emma is here to watch her son compete in a sailing competition via The Royal Bermuda Yacht Club. 

I admire that Emma has come so far to this lovely island- flying from Sydney to L.A., L.A. to New York, and finally New York to Bermuda, with a layover in New York on her way. How lucky we are, in America, that Bermuda is so accessible. 

Our gathering evoked "the grace notes" of home- a phrase that my dad used often. Seated around a table at dusk- drinking wine, enjoying cheese, and fruit surrounded by flowers, palm trees, adjacent to the Harbor...it was a delight. We touched on so many topics, ranging from Hillary Clinton, to life in Turkey, to travel, the arts, and lifestyles in our respective homelands.

We ended the night with great amusement and conviviality- some of which cannot be written about, because ladies do not tell. 

Suzie modeled (and adopted) my sunglasses. Janie invited us all out to a French film tomorrow night, and to her house for cocktails on Wednesday. We talked of my desire to stay in Bermuda- some way- some how. 

They wholeheartedly advised, that I did NOT need to focus on finding a JOB here, but rather a Bermudian man, instead...Perhaps imperative to take advice from the locals? 

Humor is healing.

Today was a great day- with inspiration at both ends.