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Give Me Cotton, or Give Me Death!

I have woken up, literally, to the crowing of roosters at the prime hour of 6:00 am. It's time for java, and time to write. For the first time in my life, I have witnessed that my computer is SWEATING- Yes, from the humidity! The screen needs a windshield wiper. I look at my phone to check the weather. At nearly 7:00 am, it is already 72 degrees and 91% humidity...

This weather makes you want to strip, and makes you want to pool crash, even if risking arrest.

This morning, Janie knocked on my door, to see if I needed a lift anywhere. I was wearing one of the coolest garments I had- a cotton floral nightshirt, that I had purchased solely because it looks like it was designed at Liberty of London. 

Anyone who knows me well, knows that I am a true blue Liberty print afficionada. I was embarrassed to not be dressed yet, but opened the door to a warm reception. Janie exclaimed, "Dahhling! I LOVE your nightie! It looks like Liberty!" Sisters, separated at birth?

I toyed with whether or not to follow the doctor's orders from the walk-in clinic. I had already spent $138 on the office visit. I rationalized that if I had taken my symptoms seriously enough to walk into a clinic, I should probably take the doctors' advice. Maybe I would need an inhaler, to help with the air.

I took a taxi ride to the King Edward Hospital on Point Finger Road. Everything in Bermuda is named literally; it appears that at one point, someone asked "Can you direct me to the hospital?" and their neighbor pointed to it. Makes me smile- the names of streets here! So far, my favorite is PIE CRUST PLACE. I can envision myself calling Talbots and giving them that address...

I arrived at the "new section" of the hospital, which is lovely, aesthetically. Passing by the rosters of donors, named after forces of nature in Bermuda (i.e. the Queen Conch Society), I made it to the Radiology department, where the process was quick and efficient. 

In Bermuda, if you do not have insurance that is accepted here, you must pay out of pocket- and do so before your exam, so they do not need to worry about you running out the door, short of breath, into blazing heat and moisture, having had an x-ray "on the house".

During my brief trip to X-ray, I came upon two individuals with massive cervical collars on. They were not pink, but they caught my eye, nonetheless. I instantly thanked God that I no longer felt the need to travel by moped- although it still looks like so much fun, and I do get "moped envy" on a breezy day. 

It was lunch time, and I saw a sign for the "Pink Cafe". Indeed, I confess: I love pink and will be attracted to it- regardless of whether it is a flower or a pink porta-potty (as they have here, in the parking lot of the public Elbow Beach)!

I decided to economize on my lunch, and pop in for a heart-smart, grilled chicken sandwich. All of the servers in the cafe had pink smocks on, and table service was offered.

While dining, and taking in the cafeteria vibe, I overheard a conversation that quite literally got 'under my skin'. 

Two Bermudians were discussing an individual who is now paralyzed from the waist down, due to jumping off a rock at Horseshoe Bay. "He just miscalculated the depth of the waves", I heard. Good Lord... Bermudians like to jump off of cliffs; it must be cathartic- but surely not worth your long term mobility.

After my economical meal, I made my way up to the cardiology area for a quickie EKG. Unfortunately, when you have grown up with a heart defect, and live with Congenital Heart Disease, doctors have an inclination to protect themselves from liability at all costs, when you feel the slightest bit 'off'.


As I rode up in the elevator, my eyes perused the various "floor menus". I was taken back by certain regions of the basement. 

At home, hospitals do not openly advertise the location of a  "Family Viewing Room" or "The Morgue". Perhaps the viewing room is for movie night. But, the morgue... In such a polite place, as Bermuda, why not just keep that part a little secret, for the people who need to be 'in the know'? 

The Cardiology area reminded me of Southampton Hospital at home; it is a bit dated. I was interested to see a splashy portrait of some fun-loving hospital benefactors in the waiting room- The Barbers.

When I left the hospital, my destination was the Bermuda Red Cross Thrift Shop. I had been referred to this shop, and hoped to find some inexpensive gorgeous eyelet skirts- or vintage china from old Bermuda. 

Sadly, most of the clothes were synthetic. I made the decision to rapidly exit. I do not understand how Bermudians can wear anything other than cotton or linen?!

Feeling like I deserved a treat, I headed for the air conditioning at Marks and Spencer, and A.S. Coopers. I ravaged the racks for skimpy 100% cotton garments that would look halfway decent on me. Thank goodness, I found a couple of dresses that suit this weather better than what I have brought from home. 

I also went into a shoe store called Trends- an actual shoe store like we used to have on Main Street, in East Hampton. It took me back in time, having a store entirely devoted to lovely shoes. I admired a pair of floral heels, but left them behind for the next flower child.

After my "self care", I hopped on the ferry back, and caught the most fabulous site. Sadly, my phone had died. Thus, I was without my camera. The cruise ship Prisendam of Rotterdam was bidding farewell to Hamilton- being thrust away from dock into the lane of the harbor, where they could sail on to parts unknown.

As I watched the cruise ship make its way into free water, I saw about 10 little kids learning to sail, across the harbor- all in little white boats with little white sails.

Next to the enormous vessel- that had the capacity to obliterate them- they looked like little dots- triangles, actually. I wondered to myself, what their view of the cruise ship looked like, from water level. As is common in Bermuda, they did not take it on- they kept sailing, without a care.

Arriving back at Salt Kettle, I learned that poor Edwina had been stung by a Portuguese Man-of-War! Stepping out of the sea at Elbow Beach, the pink sang swirled. Lurking close to the shore was a jellyfish, ready to give her a wicked sting. She described how she suddenly felt intense pain, and noticed tentacles wrapped around her legs!

She and her sister were lucky to be cared for by the experienced beach staff at the Elbow Beach Resort. Poor Edwina! They had to apply shaving soap, scrape her legs with a credit card (to remove all stingers) and then douse her with vinegar!



All of us at the guest house admired her bravery. It is said that being stung by PMOW can "make grown men cry!" It is not that unusual for visitors, who get stung, to head for the hospital. But our Edwina is Bermudian; she took it in stride.

I hadn't wanted to impose, but I decided to ask Suzie if the air conditioning in my room could be lowered a wee bit. Although there is a ceiling fan in there, the windows do not have screens at the moment. I shut them, to avoid having a heron join me in bed. 

Suzie immediately took action, entering my room to adjust the clicker for the AC. "Oh Dear! It's set on HEAT!!!" She adjusted it for me, and we agreed to recheck the temperature, before she left.

A short while later, I re-entered the room to check the temperature. At this point, it was like walking into a FURNACESuzie had inadvertently turned the heat UP! It was a riot! (No wonder I was plagued with dehydration...)

It was decided to let the handyman take care of it. Next to diamonds, working AC is a woman's best friend.

Suzie was waiting for an arrival via British Airways; personal greetings are the house rule. We sat and chatted about the charm of Salt Kettle. I expressed that this place would be the perfect venue for a ROAD SCHOLAR weekend. 

I bet all of the regulars (over the age of 55) would come down in a heartbeat, to learn about anything they did not already know about Bermuda. I would love to see a weekend on Vintage Bermuda, personally. 

The newest guest arrived- Chris from Guernsey Island, in the UK. He is here on a mere 4 day trip of business, combined with expedient R&R. I shared with him that my nephew, Pete, has played music on his home island more than once, and has a keen affection for the place! The world just keeps getting smaller here...

I took a breather from the humidity, to sit in my room to write. It was a refreshing 16 degrees celsius. Heaven. 

Out of the blue, my phone rang; it was Larry! I was so excited to receive a phone call, that I greeted him with enthusiasm! He said, "Oh, I am so sorry my dear. I must have called you by accident". I told him that my feelings were hurt, and we shared stories of the day. When I told him that I was battling adequate hydration, he said, "Do you have water??????" 

I had been drinking water out of the faucet, which is perfectly fine- in homes that have filtration (for the rain they collect off the roof). 

Concerned, Larry said, "I will bring you bottles of water!" It was late- dark outside! He insisted, and soon showed up in the driveway, with three bottles of water, leaving his characteristic red hat at home, in his haste. 

We chatted for a while, and told each other we would keep in touch daily, as my trip moves forward. How chivalrous (and Bermudian), to bring a lady some water!

Fully awake, I shifted my writing to the living room. Little time passed before Aussie Emma walked in, from a Barbecue held by her sailing friends. She said, "I need some cheese and bees!!" Not wanting to be rude, I asked "Excuse me?! What are cheese and bees?" 

This was the first of many hilarious moments in conversation. We drank wine until midnight, sharing stories of travel, particularly the sticky wickets a lady can get into, when traveling alone. As her son's sailing ramps up, she will surely have more tales to share with us about the yachting lifestyle- both in Australia and Bermuda. 

The big sailing race will take place in Hamilton Harbor on Saturday. I said, "Oh, yes! I saw the big buoys in the harbor, with the sponsors of the race!" She said, "Boowees? What are those?!" I said, "You know- those big things that float in the water!" Mystified, she said "OH!!!! BOYS!!!" 



Suddenly, we realized that it was midnight, and we might be laughing a bit too loudly.

We whispered "Goodnight" to one another, hoping not to wake the others.
























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