New, Old Friends

We take for granted how long, Long Island actually is. Bermuda is the same size as The Hamptons, essentially- an entire nation. At home, we talk about going 'up the island' to go to western Suffolk or Nassau county; here, some say that they are going 'up country', if just going a distance of 10+ miles. It is no wonder, that the expression "six degrees of separation" does not apply on this rock. New friendships blossom, like Hibiscus.

Over the past few days, I have become acquainted with new faces, new friends and new places. The undercurrent of all of these experiences is the familiarity that is shown to me, by Bermudians- and the familiarity that is shown to one another, regardless of the length of the relationship. Even as I venture to unknown places, I am shown the warmth of a neighbor.

Courtesy is ingrained in this culture, to the very detail. In Hamilton, just prior to the roundabout, there is a digital sign that shows you your speed. If you are on target, you get a digitalized smiley face. If you are speeding, you get a sad, frowny face. 

When crossing the street in town, there is a device that tells you whether to STOP, or CROSS; yet, it does not just say 'CROSS'. It says 'CROSS WITH CARE.' Even inanimate objects are humane in Bermuda!

On Monday, I lunched at Mad Hatters. I had seen pictures of its decor- an Alice in Wonderland theme, with hats of all varieties, bedecking the walls. My cab driver raved about its food, so I made a spontaneous dash!

Mad Hatters serves one menu per week, with an option of two or three courses included in the price. This is an interesting twist, which allows for diverse dishes to be offered to regular clientele, which include a large number of business people, due to its convenient location, as well as many visitors. 

I enjoyed a salad of greens with apricots and strawberries, in a honey vinaigrette, followed by an Sweet and Sour Chicken, prepared by their multinational chefs. The food was delicious. 

As is common here, my waitress  asked me why I was in Bermuda. Ascertaining that I was on my own, she shared that a single gentleman had just been in for lunch- he is a regular on Mondays and Wednesdays, apparently. She was disappointed that we had just missed each other! She said, " I would have fixed you up!" 

She was not kidding! 

I was struck by her interest in my well being, and the fact that relationships here form at a rapid pace- utterly unlike New York.

After lunch, I made a pilgrimage to a consignment shop, recommended by Jane and Suzie- Orange Bay Company, right in Hamilton. 

Here in Bermuda, there is a desire to re-use everything. Shopping for new clothes that have been gently worn, is the norm, due to the high prices of everything that is new!

Orange Bay is a jewel of a find- a three level shop, that sells Antiques, furniture, clothing and home decor- virtually everything. It is no surprise, that the merchandise that is dropped off here, walks out with a new owner at rapid speed. Jane came home one day with a Vera Bradley carry-on-sized duffle bag, that she had purchased for $5. at Orange Bay. If I lived in Bermuda, I would come here to furnish my home, and myself!

On Tuesday, Jane and I had a girls' excursion afternoon to town. Again, I observed how interpersonal barriers in Bermuda are so much different. As we drove into Hamilton, Jane pointed out a few people on the street, whom she knows, and gave me the lowdown on each.

At Rosedon, where we went for a perfect al fresco lunch, we were greeted by the bellmen, Gerald and Kenny- my new, old friends. In no time, Gerald was telling Jane that he would drop by Salt Kettle to become familiar with her family's guest house, so that he could recommend it, if Rosedon was full. 

Having only met Gerald at Easter, and having only met Kenny several weeks ago, it was wild to been welcomed back to Rosedon, in such a familiar way.

Gerald likes to say that he likes 'real people'. So do I. There is a sense of engagement here, that is palpable. Small talk isn't small talk; it is genuine communication.

Jane and I went shopping in town after lunch. She took me into the decadent shop for ladies, Calypso. At last, I got the true scoop about the relationship of the Bermudian Calypso shop, to our former shop in Sag Harbor; they shared the same logo, but a different vibe.

Apparently Calypso was originally started here in Bermuda by Polly Hornburg in the 1950's! Subsequent stores opened elsewhere, but regrettably, the trademark for the logo lost its protection, state side. This is why the logo remains the same In Sag Harbor, but the shops have no affiliation. 

In Bermuda, Calypso is the epitome of splashy, tropical wonderfulness. It's history in fashion pre-dates that of the more-commercialized Lilly Pulitzer. 

On this visit, I admired virtually everything, particularly a fabulous pair of white patent thong sandals with a black block heel- they were to die for, but slightly out of this girl's price range.

As we made our way along Front Street, I was amused, that we could not go into ONE store, without someone coming up to Jane and hugging her, before chatting up a storm. She seemed to know everyone. 

At one point, we went into a jewelry store. As I browsed, Jane and the saleslady had a rapid-fire conversation about the behavior of teenagers. 

With such laughter and rapport, I had to ask Jane, when we left, "How long have you two known each other?" I thought surely they had known each other, since first grade.

Jane said, "I don't know her!" 

I laughed out loud. "Are you kidding me?" 

She said, "No...that's just the Bermudian way".

Wednesday brought another day of serendipitous connections. Back at Easter, I had met a sweet young lady at church, named Tiffany. Despite the fact that she is now nine months pregnant (!), she invited me to to be her guest at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club for lunch. What a treat! 

We talked about Bermudian traditions (such as the popular Bermuda Codfish breakfast), my experiences in Bermuda, her daughter's interest in sailing, and her recipe for successful home schooling. 

With a due date so near, I felt that Tiffany's free time was literally precious. The fact that she made time for me- a visitor- an acquaintance- spoke volumes to me about her character, and this culture.

That afternoon, I had yet another brush with Bermudian hospitality. The owner of the home, where we stayed at Easter (via Air BNB!), Kate, invited me to go for tea at The Coral Beach Club! 

Like Tiffany, Kate came to pick me up, at Suzie's cottage. Off we went, to the lovely Coral Beach Club, that sits overlooking the breathtaking South Shore. The club is gorgeous- old world feel, with stunning views, and planters full of lush pink petunias, that my mom would have been very impressed by.

While we waited for the tea to be set up, we sat out on the prettiest veranda, which is lined with large white wooden rockers, overlooking the sea. I felt as though I could stay there FOREVER.

With hints of bad weather coming, there was a breeze. Waves were kicking up a lot, and the palms were swaying. Beautiful stormy clouds were arriving, just in time for my camera to snap them.

Kate and I had tea, and the most delicious baby scones that I had ever tasted- freshly baked, and warm. 

We talked about Bermuda, our families, her spectacular home, called Gairlochy, and how grateful I was that we were able to make such incredible memories there. 

As Kate drove me home, she regretted that we did not connect, until the end of my stay. Nonetheless, she invited to take me anywhere I needed, over the next couple of days, and even offered to walk me into her country club for my last beach day, so that I could enjoy a chair and umbrella, in style. (Might need to do it!)

Staying at Suzie's has been reminiscent of all of these other encounters, too. She had treated me like family, let me feel 100% at home in her house, and included me in her daily plans- even if our schedules diverge. We have shared coffee together in the morning, a day trip to the beach, a Tapas dinner in Hamilton, and daily nightcaps on her terrace. 

I have been privy to stories of the Lowe family (very interesting, with two children born in England and two in Africa), stories of beloved Hazel, memories of her late husband, tales of travels in Turkey, grains of motherly wisdom, as well as innumerable anecdotes, that bring on roaring laughter. She has so many interesting stories to tell, that I asked if she would consider writing a memoir. 


What fun, to learn so much from someone else. She has also provided a shoulder for me, when tears for my mom would inevitably surface. Pure acceptance and support.

Last night, as I returned from Hamilton on the last ferry (8pm), the crew who had taken me out for a spin, were on duty- my pals. As I watched the spectacular clouds overhead, I got the first twinges of what it will be like on Sunday, as I head home.

Before we reached Salt Kettle, I went downstairs and talked with Elijah, who reminded me that the ferry will be on a holiday schedule for Bermuda Day. 

I asked him what time I should be in town, in anticipation of huge crowds for the parade. (Apparently, Bermudians actually tape off spots on the street for their families, to be right at the front lines of all of the action!)

With curiosity of what I would encounter on Friday, I shared that the locals (whom I know) did not seem to relish the notion of heading straight into hoards of people in town for Bermuda Day (I get it- we feel the same way, on summer holidays in the Hamptons). 

"I don't know anyone who wants to go to the parade... so I will be going to town alone".

Elijah and Shakir reassured me, "Well, maybe we will bump into you tomorrow!" 

Knowing that Bermuda Day evokes the celebratory aspects of Mardi Gras, I replied, "Ok! But, which one of us will be sober?!" 

They both replied, nearly in unison, "NOT ME!"

There is always a bright side here, even with a cloudy sky!