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Writing Smitten

It's hard to believe that I have arrived at my 5th year anniversary of Smitten with Bermuda. 

When I ventured off to Bermuda in 2018, soon after losing my mother, I had no idea what that one solo trip would mean for my grief, for my life, for my soul- not to mention the ensuing five years. I had cared for my ailing mother for the prior three and a half years. 

Just as she had cared for me- as a baby born with heart disease, I would care for her (along with my sister, Nina), when her beautiful heart began to fail her. It was an emotionally excruciating time for me, yet one that I would not trade for anything in the world. Caregiving is the most beautiful and selfless gesture that you can extend to someone else in this lifetime.

I believe that a Frangipani is a Bermudian Daisy

Needless to say, I felt unbearable sorrow after Marlys left this Earth. She was my best friend, my confidante- a brave and remarkable lady. I did not believe- in April of 2018- that any trip could assuage my pain. However, I did recall that she had given me some specific advice for this juncture in time. When she would wake up from her naps, I would pull up a chair next to her bed with a cup of coffee and we would chat.

My mom and I

When I asked her how I would go on (with a nod to her anticipated absence), she told me "You will put one foot in front of the other." She also told me to "Spend the rest of my life being happy," which was a generous wish- the beginning of my first Smitten with Bermuda blog.

During 2018, I traveled to Bermuda multiple times. Back and forth from the Hamptons I would go- escaping the mayhem of the crowds, as if I had a little secret hideaway. Many times, I would hop onboard The Hampton Jitney to head west. On one occasion, I even brought a "roadie" of Rosé- how very Hamptons, Darling! Actually, that was a nod to Marlys. 

On the road again. Farewell, Hamptons!

On each and every trip, I carried Marlys' picture in my purse. When we arrived in Bermuda, her sweet likeness would sit on the dresser. When I would venture out and about, back into my purse she went- depending on my day's activities. Somehow, I felt reassurance from having her with me in a tangible way. I still do.

My years of writing about Bermuda and sharing my love of the islands have seemed to go by fast, although the impact of the pandemic has been an exception- in no uncertain terms. Oddly, despite being struck with Covid-19 in 2020 and developing Long Covid in 2021, Bermuda has remained my beacon on a daily basis. 

Look to the light.

When I was in quarantine out of state, during the earliest stage of the pandemic, I had Bermuda to keep me company. I was all alone in a hotel room- a thousand miles from home- for nearly 30 days, feeling like a pariah- not knowing if I would get home. I will never forget seeing healthcare workers in Hazmat suits, and asking them questions about my condition... They would all say, "We don't know." Can you imagine?

Since then, whenever I have been in a doctors' office, Emergency Room or in the hospital (separated from family), I have had Bermuda with me- at my fingertips. On days when I have felt blue, or victorious- as though I had turned a corner, I had a passion to keep me going. 

I became a statistic. It was very scary.

When I had energy for little else over the past couple of years, I could sit in my bed and brainstorm ideas for Bermuda Tourism. I thought up a fabulous tagline for Bermuda's recovery, and even reached out to Glenn Jones (then interim CEO of the BTA)- about adding some airlift from Islip MacArthur? (I still think that this is a fabulous idea, mind you.)

If I had not realized that we were soul mates prior to being apart for so long, I am now assured. Bermuda and I have a mutual, unbreakable relationship.

Still at it! 

This week, as I celebrate the fifth anniversary of Smitten with Bermuda, I would like to share my gratitude for the experiences that I have had, the people that I have met, the followers that have inspired me, and my hope for the future. My life has been touched by Bermuda (and her fellow admirers) in ways that transcend words.

My first note of gratitude goes to the Lowe family at Salt Kettle Guest House, for their incredible warmth, compassion and humor. They were unfailing supports in my life during 2018 and 2019, at a time when I needed that, more than ever. I will never forget the love that they have extended to me. 

The Lowes of Salt Kettle House: Jane, John and Suzie

It seems as though it was destiny that I should stay with Hazel Lowe on my first trip to Bermuda, and later return to stay with her adult children, once we had all suffered maternal loss. Little did we know then, that our mothers resembled each other and had much in common- quite uncanny, really. Perhaps not an accident.

A precious place, Salt Kettle Guest House.

First, thank you to Johnny Lowe for sneaking up on me every morning in the Salt Kettle kitchen, making sure that I levitated off the ground with a shriek, prior to my first cup of coffee. Maybe I did not need coffee to wake up, after all? This was a ritual that I could rely on, whenever John was around- and this girl has a startle response that can startle others!

On a related note, thank you, John for also ensuring that the smell of hot coffee was wafting thru the guest house in the early hours of the morning. This is the hallmark of a good host, and it never went unnoticed by this gal.

I would be remiss to not offer one more thanks to John, for agreeing to wake me up at 4:00 am on that fateful morning that I climbed aboard the freighter with the Harbor Pilots. It was a very early call. I know that you did not want to wake up at that ungodly hour- before the Hibiscus- but you did. Seriously, what if my alarm had failed? 

 I arrived here ("North Atlantic Ocean") at 6:36 am, thanks to John.

Johnny Lowe and I have shared some hearty laughs. There is nothing that I love more, than someone who has a quick wit and a great sense of humor. Sometimes, however, things are not at all funny... until later.

Just another day in the cargo lanes~ onboard Somers Isles, 2018

I recall one night, when I accidentally got locked out of the guest house after going to dinner in Southampton. John had just flown in (literally) from London, and was terribly jet lagged. To this day, I suspect that another guest sabotaged me, by locking the front door to the guest house... All I remember was lurking in the driveway, outside John's wing of the house, whispering through the screens, "Excuse me...John...???"  


Celebrating my birthday with Suzie, 2022

Thank you to Suzie Lowe, who picked me up at Granaway Guest House that first day in her little red car that could barely accommodate the size of my luggage.  I recall being coaxed with a stiff upper lip to "Hurry up!" Guests were arriving at Salt Kettle!! My fear of Suzie was short lived, though. Soon, she began to greet me with an Audrey Hepburn voice everyday. "Well, hello Dahhhhlink!" (I still eat that up with a spoon.)

Suzie and Jane @ Salt Kettle

Suzie and I share memories of eating Tapas in town, chatting about life in sarongs well into the night, musing about her cats' antics at the imaginary "Kitty Bar" (where Bermudian cats disappear occasionally),  picnicking at Daniels Head with Helen and Jane (at which point she contemplated  carrying some very unwieldy driftwood up a rock cliff) and of course, the day she took me to the hospital, when I suddenly became allergic to the Lowes' cat, Trigger.

I loved you so much, Island Kitten!

Suzie got me into the car and said, "I am beginning to worry about you. Whenever you come to stay, you seem to have these health scares!" Coincidentally, I had run into dehydration on my prior stay, warranting a full work up and needing some STAT meds from the hospital that tasted like sand. Never before had I received a medication that read "For oral or rectal use!" My God! In this instance, I believe that I reacted to an island plant that Trigger had been playing in- go figure! 

At any rate, I made sure to stop into the hospital gift shop to get Suzie a little token of appreciation for taking me to KEMH; I had interrupted her day.  With that said,  after glancing at my $700 hospital bill, I may have needed the chocolate more than she did- ha ha! Thank God for Benadryl and steroids. I had the Dolphin Caroling to attend that night...

I will never forget seeing my first sea turtle in the wild.

Thank you to Janie Lowe for her love of girls lunches with spirits, for taking me to tea at Coral Beach with Jon Dwyer and for always being up for an adventure. We have dined at Divots repeatedly (our spot), indulged in Swizzles at Astwood Arms, and sipped Gin and Tonic on the balcony of Sul Verde, overlooking the posh green. We have also celebrated the art of friendship on the balcony of Huckleberry at Rosedon, exchanging laughs with the bellmen, Gerald and Kenny. 

Tea and friendship at Coral Beach

What I love about Jane is that she will spontaneously offer up an invite- whether it is to hear Andrew Stevenson speak about whales, to play BINGO at St. Paul's Church, or to go thrifting at The Barn. One of my best memories is of our trip to Woody's in Somerset for lunch, by boat. Her dear boater friend picked us up at the Salt Kettle Ferry Stop, wearing a swimsuit that matched his skin tone. Without my prescription glasses on, I had a moment!  That day, we lived gloriously- stopping at Paradise Lakes on the way back for a swim and a cocktail before a storm blew in. Why not just float on a noodle for a while? These are the memories that life should be made of.

Not just another girl's lunch!

Many people do not understand that friendship requires shared experiences- being intentional and spending quality time together, rather than just "catching up" on separate lives. I appreciate this about Jane. She is present and enjoys living in the moment. Plus, she is hilarious! If Andy Cohen every decides to do "Real Housewives of Bermuda" (can you imagine?), Jane would headline the cast. 

Linda and Lynn, My Guardian Angels, 2019

Thank you to the guests that I have met at Salt Kettle- individuals who have changed my life for the better. Prior to staying at this small little property, I could not imagine meeting true friends while on a vacation. I look back on times spent with Lynn and Kim, Linda and Monica, Dudley and Edwina, Emma and Daniel- with such fondness. We still all keep in touch!  In particular, Lynn and Linda have provided me with continued inspiration over the years, as we have had the occasion to meet again. In both 2019 and 2022, I celebrated my birthday with one or both of these kind souls. 

Heading back soon, Leonora?

Over a jelly donut with a candle in it, the Salt Kettle Ladies inspired me to write a little book about Bermuda; it is finally forthcoming. I hope that I will have the good health and fortune to travel to The Canadian Maritimes to pay Lynn, Kim, Linda and Monica a visit. Knowing that we share a love of island life, an appreciation for good company, and and pure gratitude for our serendipitous meeting in Bermuda- it would be delightful to reunite on your coast. I suspect that I will become smitten!

Surprise at Salt Kettle!

Thank you to my dear friend, Anne Hyde for jump starting a fabulous friendship. We met back in 2018, when I was late for a Plein Air outing. We decided to go snorkeling together, having just met. The rest is history. Since then, we have painted together, snorkeled in Harrington Sound (seeking sea cucumbers), taken in the art scene, and dined out all over the place.

This past December, we got so preoccupied with gossip and laughter at Portofino, that we nearly missed the beginning of the Bermuda School of Music Christmas Concert. Yes, the legendary one! All of a sudden, we remembered that we had somewhere to be! Precisely as the hosts brought us Limoncino to honor my birthday... Anne and I looked at each other. With priceless expressions, we took shots, and raced off to see a jaw-dropping concert- one of the best that I have ever seen. After the show, Anne drove me all around Hamilton to take in the Christmas lights.

Portofino is especially lovely at Christmas.

On this same trip, I was lucky to stay with Anne at her home in Paget. She was the most gracious hostess. She poured me a welcome Swizzle in her beautiful living room (on her plush Swizzle-colored sofa), introduced me to all of the native plants in her garden- one by one- and made me homemade Chicken Divan on lovely china in her historic dining room, decorated with maps, artwork and antiques. My guest room was plush and welcoming. I loved every minute of my cozy stay. Her home evokes classic Bermuda. It reminded me of the historic homes in Sag Harbor, where I am from. 

Anne with one of her homegrown avocados.

Anne has a wonderful mix of personality traits. She is smart as a whip, loyal, thoughtful, generous and quite humorous! Knowing that I was still in the throes of Long Covid during my last stay, she made a point to escort me to places that I wanted to go- to preserve my energy reserves. She dropped me here and there, saving me taxi fare and enabling me to see and do much more than I would have been able to do, on my own. She did not seem to find me a burden, but had a true sense of compassion. "You wait here, and I'll pick you up," she would say. 

I keyed in on the Jon Faulkner Rock Pool at once!

Along with the heartfelt moments, Anne and I shared some good laughs on this past trip. One day, while en route to Baileys Bay, Anne suddenly stopped the car (at the juncture of Harrington Sound). "TURTLE KILLER!!" she exclaimed. 

What on Earth?! She then proceeded to run out and retrieve some plastic that was blowing toward the water. Well, that should have been self-explanatory. Anne has just retired from running Keep Bermuda Beautiful. There is nobody who has picked up more trash than this lady. It's always on her radar.

Bailey's Bay

A few days later, on the way to the airport, I offered to give Anne some money for gas- as she had driven me all over Bermuda, it seemed. Gas is very expensive in Bermuda. This was the least that I could do! This time, I was the butt of the joke. Anne said, "Daisy, this entire week, we have been driving around Bermuda in an electric vehicle!" Ha! You can tell that I have never rented a Twizzy...

On the same ride, I mentioned some trivia to Anne- that John Lennon had written "Watching the Wheels" while in Bermuda. Anne acknowledged me (straight faced), and said "Watching the Whales?"  

Perhaps that could have been the alternate title for Mr. Lennon. Although whales don't go "round and round"- ha ha! Or maybe they do. Ask Andrew Stevenson. (Attached is a nod to Anne for making me smile. I love this song!)

It's not easy to make friends along the road of life that you want to invest in. Bermuda has given me that, and so much more.

Thank you to everyone who has supported my writing about Bermuda- from those who have been featured in my blogs, to the editorial staff at The Bermudian Magazine for welcoming my perspectives into your media forum. Little did I know, back in 2018, that I would one day receive a magazine in my  mailbox with my words written in it.  I am grateful for the faith that has been placed in me, to capture stories in words and images- the same goes for The Loren at Pink Beach for recently hosting me.


Thank you to the new acquaintances that I have made online within Bermuda Bound. We all share an indescribable love of Bermuda that has changed our lives for the better. The vital work that Kath Heytink and her administrators do, on behalf of Bermuda, is invaluable. To have created a forum, wherein someone can receive real time information about Bermuda from so many perspectives is a game changer for tourism. How lucky is Bermuda? If I can be frank, I believe that each of the loyal Admins at Bermuda Bound ought to be gifted an annual trip to Bermuda. Generosity of spirit should always come full circle. 

Barbara Finsness hosted me for dinner in 2018.

Thank you to the new friends that I have made in Bermuda, and for the serendipitous opportunities that have come my way. Thank you to Barbara Finsness for welcoming me into your home for dinner. Thank you to Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone for teaching me how to create a fragrance. Thank you to Debbie Rance for taking me on a Golden Retriever playdate on a warm morning in December. Thank you to Robin Hamill for inviting me to sail aboard "Spirit of Bermuda" in the Holiday Boat Parade this year. I cannot recall a memory that will ever compare to that. Everyone that has extended themselves to me has given me renewed inspiration.

I wanted to go in with Scupper. JUMP!

The truth is- on each and every trip, I have the opportunities to meet new people that I would not have met, were it not for my writing. This is not only because I am curious, but also passionate about Bermuda's influence on me.

Just think- had I not asked Artist Carole Holding if I could fill a gap in her schedule at Watercolours (her gorgeous B&B) for a single night this past December, I would never have learned that she had stories to tell about Queen Elizabeth II. Similarly, had I not fallen in love with the story of wayward grey seal named Lou-Seal, I would not have met the leadership team at BAMZ- or that of Mystic Aquarium, or returned to scrub sea turtles at Bermuda's Aquarium. 

Grape Bay


Chatting about Bermuda, with Lou-Seal at Mystic Aquarium, 2019

Thank you to my followers on social media for showing interest in my work. While I never intended to seek followers, I can say with certainty that quality of audience is much better than quantity. My readers are loyal. Jennifer Adam knows that I have had a long go with my health. She asks me how I am feeling. Beth Allison Moss- a nurse who used to live and work in Bermuda- tells me that she appreciates what I do- on days when I may feel unwell or completely inconsequential.  She also shares delightful memories of Bermuda from another era. I appreciate every word of solidarity!


With my sister, Nina in Sag Harbor, NY

Lastly, thank you to my family and friends, who have always encouraged me to keep going. Although my sister jokes that (while in her presence) I am not allowed to discuss Bermuda until she has had two cups of tea in the morning, she would be alarmed if a day went by without word of The Rock. 

Plus, she needs me, if she wants Chocolate-covered Ginger Biscuits from Marks & Spencer to go with that English Breakfast tea!

Sometimes we start things in life, by jumping in- and thinking later. By just putting one foot in front of the other. It seems to be a working formula for me.

Smitten with Bermuda  has enabled me to let the sunshine back in. I am so grateful.

xoxo

Daisy


Lucky and me!

A Sea Turtle would have made it complete!



Sailing on Spirit of Bermuda, Holiday Boat Parade, 2022


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