As my girlfriend and I looked through the many bins of prints- plein air scenes of Bermuda, it seemed impossible to choose which to purchase. On our first trip, we had not witnessed any of the scenes that Carole had portrayed with our own eyes, but knew that we wanted to take them home, all the same. I opted for a pink cottage (naturally) and an image of Mangrove Bay.
Years passed.
One day, as I sailed along on the ferry (Pink Route), I took special notice of a stunning light pink home on the shore, along Harbour Road. It was perfectly painted with white trim and green shutters- as if to represent a Gingerbread house. Nothing draws me in quite like a pink home- as many of you know. I wondered if it was a hotel or a private home, as it was quite grand in size- not unlike a manor.
We all know that homes in Bermuda have names. I was told, by locals, that this home was called "Watercolours"; it was the home of artist Carole Holding and her family. Aha! Years later, it came to my attention that one could stay at Watercolours; there were just two rooms for rental. I searched it out online, embedded within a website for local accommodations, and put it on "my list."
During my recent eight day trip to Bermuda, I had plans for a girlfriend to join me at the tail end of my stay for four days. She would fly down from New York to celebrate my birthday. I had carefully cemented various fun holiday plans- including the procurement of tickets to the Joy to The World Christmas Concert in Hamilton, and meal reservations at my favorite restaurants- Sul Verde, Portofino, and others. We decided to rent an apartment in Paget, within walking distance to the beach. It would be the perfect end to a wonderful time in Bermuda- an authentic girls' weekend. I envisioned us drinking hot beverages at the ocean in our cozy clothes.
Watercolours now has five guest rooms available as rental accommodations. Typically, there is a minimum stay of 3-4 nights, presumably due to the work involved in turning rooms over. This is common in Bermuda, following the pandemic. As luck would have it, the gap in my hotel schedule matched the gap in Carole's bookings; we made a serendipitous deal for an impromptu stay.
Pink is quintessential Bermuda. There is no argument here. Although, how far back does that go? I once had a cab driver in Bermuda (clearly a Certified Tourism Ambassador) who told me that there is nothing I could ask him about Bermuda that he did not know. My response? "Who was the first person to paint their home pink in Bermuda?" He paused. We both laughed heartily!
I am not sure if I loved pink as much prior to loving Bermuda or whether Bermuda has enhanced my affection for pink. To be able to stand outside my room at Watercolours, and gaze up at this powdery pink home- my temporary home-was so pleasing. I even thought to myself- as I looked at the green tint of the water in the pool against the pink wall- red and green are opposites on the color wheel. Did Carole plan this color scheme?
2. Watercolours is full of unique family artwork.
I was raised within an artist's family. My grandfather was a famous American Illustrator (Stevan Dohanos) and prominent commercial artist during the 'Mad Men' era. My father was a painter and art director for TV and film. Paternal genes clearly infiltrated all of my relatives on my dad's side. Both of my uncles painted, and infused a love of art in their children. Each of my cousins is immensely gifted in different media from ink drawing to ceramics. My sister is no exception. She is a writer, photographer and genius with food. My heritage includes a childhood home filled with art by family and friends.
There is no visiting this property without asking the story behind it. It is magnificent. Apparently, decades before my visit, this property was a boat yard. That makes sense, given the location along Harbour Road. Carole and her husband purchased the property and built the house from scratch to accommodate their extended family. Her husband shared that he had hoped to park his boats underneath the house, once it was built. However, no such luck! The architectural "powers that be" did not approve of this. It would have been convenient, though!
The interior of the home (portions that are open to the public) is spacious, with a sweeping staircase leading up to the residence. Authentic wooden beams overhead remind us that we are indeed in Bermuda. I did not ask, but I presume they are Bermuda Cedar. Having grown up in a home with a cathedral ceiling with rustic beams, I zoned in on this element of the home's design right away.
4. The accommodations are first rate.
Have you ever walked into a place to stay, that literally shined? Such was my experience at Watercolours. From the moment I entered the library, I noticed that the home was kept in an immaculate state. Looking around, I noticed high gloss paint on trim and doors, dainty moldings, gleening fixtures. The floors that led from one room to another were of Portuguese marble- striking, and quite stately.
My King Bedroom was perfectly suited to me- with a plush bed, extra pillows, a large closet, sizable bathroom (with tub), spots to write, and direct access to the pool and harbor views. I could actually sit on my bed, and tell when the ferry was approaching. We all know that distinct sound that it makes.
How decadent to be able to pull up the shades to greet the day- right on the water, and to fall asleep with moonlight casting its glow on the harbour. Staying here afforded me a great sense of serenity. I loved the ability to go outdoors so easily, to catch the sight of a bird- or chat with other guests that were enjoying the tables, chairs or chaises. There is a fluidity of movement- a sense of great ease.
5. Pinch me now- Continental Breakfast with a view.
It was dark outside, and time for bed. Before hitting my pillow, I tiptoed out into the library to get some ice water. There in the library was a bar for guests (on the honor system), drinks, a fridge and an ice maker. At any time of day, one can find refreshment, without going out; this is a simple nuance, but much appreciated. Why not share beverages, and replace them when you are at the grocery store?
As I entered the room, it was- honestly- as if Santa Claus had come. All of the tables were set for morning breakfast with lovely linens, silver and china. A buffet of teas, jams, and French coffee presses was on display- only waiting for the fresh ingredients the morning would bring. What a sight. I felt so fortunate.
Naturally, I woke up early, eager to have a hot cup of coffee on my birthday. While waiting for breakfast to be served, I went outside and eagerly waited, eyes fixed on the water. Carole had mentioned that there was a "very large" sea turtle who had been coming around. If fate would make it happen, he/she would show up this morning... I have seen many pictures of sea turtles in Hamilton Harbour, but I wondered where this mature turtle made his/her residence. Where was the nearest sea grass bed? The sun rose, and at last it was 8:00 am.
I joined the other guests in the library- a friendly woman named Ursula from the UK, and a couple who was there to celebrate a birthday, too. Two birthday girls- that was unusual! Each table was set up for the occupants of a given room. My table (for one) was perfectly situated to enjoy a view of the harbor. I served myself a piece of gorgeous fresh spiced cake (festive!) and some coffee. A bowl of mini diced bananas was on my table, too. What I can say about this one meal- this is why I go to Bermuda.
There is something very special about visiting Bermuda during the holiday season. It takes my love of the islands to a whole new level. As if there weren't enough attributes of Bermuda to fawn over, the warmth of Christmas is the final touch- the red bow, if you will. This is the time when personal treasures come out into sight- old and new. It is an opportunity for discussion, nostalgia and connection.
As soon as we pulled up to Watercolours, I saw the staircase flanked in lanterns with red bows- letting me know that this was a festive place. Inside, the family Christmas tree was lit. Downstairs in the library, adjoining my accommodations, decorations were carefully placed amidst the furnishings. Sparkly baubles and foliage were co-mingled with seashells. The perfect amount of glitter, with natural reminders of the sea. Nothing overdone- just enough to remind us that we are in the season of giving.
My parents were great believers in the "grace notes" of life- these are the small details or gestures that make a world of difference to those who are observant. When I visit a place that displays such grace, there is an instant sense of fulfillment. All at once, one feels embraced- as if someone has been waiting for you to arrive!
To give you an idea, I was so thankful that Carole gave me a personal tour of her home. As she pointed out the amenities, I could feel her pride in being a hostess. Within my armoire, there was everything I would need to make Afternoon Tea- including homemade cookies stacked in a mini Tupperware container to ward off Bermudian humidity.
The Cuisinart Tea Kettle was located in the bathroom, where I also found an array of toiletries for sampling. One was a cologne that my father had worn when I was a child- instant nostalgia. Little notes were left in my room, indicating which towels to use for the beach, and other helpful advice.
There were biographies of my hosts, and literature about Bermuda- no stone was left unturned. Outside my room, there was a wooden podium at which one could ring a taxi or make dinner reservations (although Wi Fi was perfect here). I marvel that Bermuda still publishes a phone book. I loved this touch- a special place to ring someone. I am definitely of another era!
8. A pool just steps away.
One of the major draws of this residence is the view of Hamilton Harbour. Guests here have a front row seat. If that were not enough, there is a small swimming pool on the terrace that affords the luxury of swimming as the ferries and sailboats pass. Can you fathom this?
Those who know me, will attest that I am a diehard swimmer- not a good swimmer, per se. I have never learned to do the crawl. Certainly not the butterfly! Not at all in a league with Flora Duffy. Honestly, I swim like a frog. But- with that said, I love the water like nothing else. Where there is a pool in sight, I must go in. When Carole heard this, she put the outdoor lights on at dusk- just for my sunset splash. (Mind you, Bermudians do not swim in the winter!)
Running on holiday adrenaline, I was sure that I could muster a dip in the pool. Rather than don my swimming costume (as the Brits say), I decided to sit on the steps with my feet in the water first- gazing at the horizon- just to see how long it would take me to acclimate. In little time, I had to sheepishly admit that the water was... frigid! I was not sure why, given the warm air. However, I opted for the cozy bed over the polar bear plunge, this once.
9. There are lovely spaces outdoors to relax.
It is not often that I book more than one accommodation for a single trip. With this, comes unpacking, repacking and the inevitable clash of check out times with check in times. Carole let me know that my room did need to be serviced on the morning of my arrival, but that I was welcome to come with my things, and enjoy the property.
This property is located not far from The Belmont Ferry stop in Warwick. Once you descend the steps from the parking area, there is a long terrace with tables and chairs, ergonomic chaise lounge chairs made of wood that blend into the landscape along with traditional ones with cushions. The swimming pool is open for use by all guests, as is an outdoor shower that is carefully hidden by native plants.
If you walk along the water on the stone pavers, you will notice manicured landscaping and a lovely park bench of aged wood on which you can watch the sunset. Next to it are steps down into the harbour. I would go into the harbor for a dip, if it were summertime! It's too close, not to. I can envision guests spending a whole day here, enjoying a little downtime in between sightseeing.
10. Peace on Earth.
I appreciate places that are carefully designed. At Watercolours, my guest room had an interior door connecting me to the central marble hallway, as well as doors to the outside- leading to the harbor and the pool. There was no need for me to tread through common areas, if I sought privacy and quiet. The library is kept open for guests' mutual enjoyment. The outdoor furniture is very conducive to gathering with others, also. However, one can set his/her own pace here. I felt as if I were on a retreat. For a writer, that is idyllic. Tranquility was mine, yet I did not feel alone.
11. A Ferry View.
Those of you who follow my blog may know that I have referred to Harbour Road as one of soulmates. The public ferry in Bermuda is also one of my soulmates. I am sure not why, except to say that when I am on the ferry in Hamilton Harbour, I feel lucky. I feel as though anything is possible. Naturally, the prospect of watching the ferry go by was a huge draw for this guest, when I selected Watercolours. I knew that I would be able to hear the humming sound in the water as the ferry approached. That I could memorize the ferry schedule and not need a watch. That I could wave to those onboard, and they would wave back. I will always be smitten with the little things.
12. Hospitality is an art form.
It seems hard to believe that we ever existed without technology. Back in early days of Bermuda tourism, when a visitor arrived on a fabulous cruise to Bermuda on The Queen Mary or a transatlantic flight on Pan Am, they would take joy in sending postcards home to let everyone know what they had discovered.
That gesture required shopping for a postcard, taking the time to sit and write it out, an outing to buy stamps, and another to put it in the post box. Chances are, it took month to arrive at its destination, but how exciting nonetheless! The recipient would see an image of Bermuda on a card, and begin to wonder...
The hospitality at Watercolours reminded me of this gentler time, when life was perfect without branding or Social Media- when travelers felt the serendipity of discovering a new secret place before any others had. This sense of wonder invigorated me.
Here I was, in this magnificent place- a palatial pink Bermudian home with just five rooms available to rent- and incomparable hospitality.
Could I keep this a secret?
D.
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