Daisy was a Rolling Stone!

There are days when a hangover is a beautiful thing. When you enjoy yourself so much, that only photographs and videos tell the tales of what has truly happened. Such was last night- my first birthday in Bermuda- one that was celebrated by many, and treasured by me. I was one of the few who were not feeling ill in the morning- an added birthday gift. Although the "day after" was full of its own surprises...

On Friday, for once, I decided to take the evening flight 'out' to Bermuda, which leaves "at cocktail hour," as Marlys would say. I don't typically choose to fly the 'airline that shall remain nameless' because the last time that I flew with them, I managed to acquire BOTH Strep Throat and a mystery virus- neither of which made my holiday! Dirty plane? I don't know. 

Typically, on Delta the seats are spacious, the service is stellar- same goes for Jet Blue. On Friday night, I wound up in a bulk head seat that was adequately sized for two chicken thighs at best, with no leg room and the wall so close to my face that I began to count the minutes to Bermuda, before take off. Those of you from home will liken this to riding the Hampton Jitney out from NYC for July 4th weekend, on a Friday evening at rush hour- and having to sit next to the rest room.

Due to a few empty seats on the plane, I was able to move over to the window- rather than being the middle sardine. The gentleman in the aisle seat (who looked like Bradley Cooper) was upgraded to First Class. Bastard! The flight attendant came, and kindly offered the aisle seat in my row to the woman behind me- who was coughing and blowing her nose, incessantly... So began the birthday trip! With my Purell in the overhead bin, I pulled my scarf up closer to my nose, to hide as we took off over Queens.

Thankfully, the winds were blowing in the right direction, and our flight arrived sooner than anticipated. Gazing out into blackness, we began to descend, causing the entirety of my tray table contents to come flying off- soaking my cell phone in a full glass of Chardonnay. JOY...

As I looked out the window, I was calmed by the sight of the beacon on Gibbs Hill Lighthouse. At last, we had arrived. My phone still worked; I sighed.

Speeding through Customs, I headed to Salt Kettle to find my dear friend, Linda, waiting up for me- we had met over Mother's Day in Bermuda and would serendipitously be reunited. The Christmas tree was aglow in the living room. Fresh flowers were waiting for me on my dresser, and my favorite paisley sheets were on my bed. Best of all, there were tree frogs singing. So easy to exhale and fall fast asleep!

Waking up in Bermuda on my birthday, I saw sun trickling into my room. It might as well have been Christmas. I leapt out of bed to find coffee and take in nature- the only way to start the day in Bermuda.

Sitting out on the sunny terrace with friends Lynn and Linda, I would soon be joined by Suzie, Janie and Helen for an impromptu birthday breakfast. Beautiful pastries and a gift from The Island Shop, wrapped in gingham ribbon- an inadvertent (?) nod to my mom. Watching Trigger (aka "island kitten") try to capture birds was highly amusing entertainment. 

As is the norm at Salt Kettle, there are many regulars- yet some are crossing paths for the first time. Lynn and Linda are best friends from St. John, New Brunswick. Lynn's son married a Bermudian and just recently welcomed twin babies, so she is here for extended family time. Linda came down for a few weeks to help oversee the guest house. Both ladies were here with me on Mother's Day. Phil and Karen (new faces to me) are here from New Mexico- also regulars who like to come here during December. 

Elated that the sun was shining, it was not difficult to decide where to lunch in town. Off to Rosedon I went, to enjoy the breezy veranda, consistent cuisine and a first class experience. I opted for the Thai flatbread pizza with chicken, scallions, veggies, peanut sauce and cilantro- absolutely delicious. 

I looked around at the attention to detail, as I always do- from roses of different colors on each table to the Christmas garlands lightly frosted with silver to the pedal bike outside with a license plate that reads "Meet Me at Rosedon". I caught up with Kenny, the charming bellman. He offered to show me rooms after my lunch, in case I might want to join them for a dreamy stay.

Rosedon is reminiscent of New Orleans to me. The architecture evokes old Bermuda, while the elements of color, design and even the fixtures infuse classic Bermudian design with modernity. Kenny and I looked at four rooms- each with high ceilings, lush island colors and exquisite taste. 

After lunch, my phone would not keep its charge. I feared that the fallen drink was wreaking latent havoc. Off I went, to find I-Repair in the alley across from La Trattoria. Despite the number of phones that were in line, prior to me, the manager honored my need for "a birthday miracle", since I was a blogger who would be here in vain, without my phone! 

I departed for a short time into The Washington Mall. As I circled the downstairs atrium, the most beautiful Christmas music bellowed into the space- Nina's favorite, "Carol of the Bells". I followed the steps up, and sure enough there was a group of 14 strings (!) playing a mini concert for shoppers- led by a conductor and artist (Charles Knights), whom I had previously painted with on my Bermuda Plein Air outing! The island keeps getting smaller. 

I sat and listened as they played the most beautiful music, until it was time to fetch my phone. Interestingly, they played three songs in a row that were the favorites of Nina, myself and my mom. As I exited the mall, I saw a lady raising money for a cancer charity. She was collecting donations, in exchange for memorial ornaments to be hung on a giant Christmas tree. I bought 5 ornaments for the ladies who left my life this year- my mom, my Aunt Flo and three dear friends- Mary, Reggie and Debbie.

I returned to I-Repair, and perused the selection of phone cases on the wall. I found 5 or 6 pastel phone coats that were literally swatches of Bermuda; I decided that if my phone made it out of ICU alive, I would buy it a Bermuda pink sand pink coat. Why did we not have these colorful cases in the Hamptons, I wondered... 


Thanks be to God, my phone rebounded with a new charger port, a new battery and a new screen. I was elated (even after learning that the pastel coats were the wrong size for my phone.) I paid my bill, shoved my phone in my purse, and ran off to my favorite pharmacy to quickly peruse holiday wares- finding some delightfully Bermudian decorations to admire- including some perfectly pink and blue Christmas trees- WOW!

Time was ticking. I needed to get back to Salt Kettle for the boat parade party. I sped to Goslings to buy some wine, and hopped into a cab, enroute to take my birthday plunge at my favorite place- Elbow Beach. Upon arrival, staff was scarce. Christmas lights were lit- as the day was turning to dusk. Cafe Lido was getting ready for dinner service. I found one waiter at Mickey's and asked if I could take a swim; I was the only soul in sight. 

I suited up, and took in a panoramic view of the beach- pink sand, periwinkle clouds, and the turquoise sea. With my head literally in the clouds, shooting picture after picture, I inadvertently took one step forward. Unbeknownst to me, there was a step there- one that would catapult me onto my backside, and my phone onto the concrete- shattering the brand new screen that had been put on, less than an hour prior.

Scrambling to get up, I made sure that nobody saw my embarrassing display, and tested my phone to see if it still worked. It did, and I could still walk, albeit with a bruised tail bone. I donned my Santa hat for fun, snapped myself for posterity, and ran into the sea. The water temp was perfect. The waves were gentle. The sand was immaculate. I was in my glory. What a perfect way to renew myself, after such a painful year- to dive into a new experience in my favorite place.

As I gazed to the horizon, I thought about the year, and I thought about my mom. I knew that she had brought me to this place. Her words- "Spend the rest of your life being happy" echoed in my head. I spoke to her, as I often do, while alone in the sea- I know that she was hovering in the clouds overhead.

A long swim, it would not be. It was time to party! Back at Salt Kettle, cocktails were already flowing and guests arriving. I scurried to my room, showered and got ready. Jane greeted guests in her Santa hat. Suzie served homemade chili. Motown and rap filled the kitchen. The temperature was cool and balmy. The guests were able to be outside, along the water, as the holiday boat parade passed us by.


A biannual tradition in Bermuda, the boat parade features illuminated boats- not unlike Mardi Gras floats, that do a few loops around the inner harbor, sparking many a harbor front Christmas party. I was personally stricken by the massive boat featuring a gigantic sparkling Christmas tree and a reggae band, playing carols. Another favorite, naturally, featured an illuminated Sea Turtle. How terribly unique this was- and utterly charming.

Bermudians do like to party- that is not a misnomer. So, even when light showers came, we kept going! The crowd gathered to sing "Happy Birthday" to me at one point, shots were poured, and dancing in the kitchen capped off the night. My friend Rudy's solo dance to "Papa Was a Rolling Stone" had me in fits. There is something about dreadlocks on Santa. Especially when he has the moves!

Indeed, after the end of a long, action packed day, wherein I had also been a "rolling stone" (!), I was grateful to have celebrated a birthday in Bermuda. Even on the coldest, stormiest, most blustery day imaginable on this island, it is always pure warmth!

*With thanks to my family and all of my friends from Bermuda and afar, who helped me get through my first birthday without the loving presence of my mom. xoxo