Riding The Waves

Over the past two days, I have been trying to ride the Christmas wave, while not getting pulled under by waves of sadness. It has finally dawned on me that a surfer may not have the luxury of riding multiple waves at once- because each one takes hold of you; it can either help you float or make you sink.

I am doing my best to enjoy the wonderful essence of Bermuda at holiday time, and it has been comforting- to see new things! I enjoy the island immensely, during the day. I venture out, meet people, enjoy myself... Yet, at night, for some reason, I have been getting the holiday blues. I miss my mom.

What 'people' say is true- when you are coping with loss, the slightest thing can change your emotional trajectory- seeing Santa Claus, hearing a song, seeing a cute elderly lady that looks like my mom- you name it. For this very reason, I was particularly glad that yesterday was Sunday.

Yesterday, I woke up and went to church- an experience that is genuinely heartening for my soul. I was delighted to see friends, and finally escape the compulsory self-introduction (by new visitors to the island) to the congregation- because at last, I am only a visitor in the eyes of Customs and Immigration!  Everyone recognizes me now, and welcomes me back. 

We had a beautiful service- complete with lovely hymns and significant participation from children- an element that I feel strikes a very compelling chord. When you hear verses read by little voices- complete with errors and gross mispronunciations, it is makes you listen even closer, and it resonates. It actually captivates. I love that Peace Lutheran begins with prayers of the Intercession, wherein the entire congregation holds hands with one another- and exchanges the peace early; it is such a warm welcome. 

Naturally, I was a little nervous about hearing Christmas hymns during the season of Advent, so I brought an entire box of tissues in my purse. Somehow, seated at the front of the church with the pastor's wife, Camille, I became entranced though- by the words spoken, the lovely voices around me and a beautiful Christmas tree in front of me, that was decorated with handmade ornaments- plenty of angels, as it should be- even on top.

The fact that one of the little boys in the front row was misbehaving also made for some extra diversion. At one point, the Pastor had to go and get him by the arm! I thought he was going to usher him back to this parents; instead, he made him stand on the alter with him for the entirety of the service! That was just perfect...  

Gazing at the Christmas tree, I wondered who had made the decorations- especially the sea turtle with the cross inside it... Although I expected to cry when the hymns filled the church, I did not; not even during "O Come, O Come Ye Emmanuel."

After church, I greeted friends in the church basement for a short time and then hopped in a cab. Sunday was the perfect day for the South Shore- a trip to the Fairmont Southampton for an afternoon of brunch, ambience-gazing and window shopping. Greeted by Victor, the Maitre D' at Windows on the Sound, I was pleased to be remembered! Victor ushered me to a table with a lovely view, past multiple buffets- all of which were jazzed up for Christmas. 

I did a full walk-through, 
to take in all of the Bermudian specialties that were for lunch- many served in red pots reminiscent of my mom's Le Creuset ware. Typically, I would have had Eggs Benedict- my brunch 'go to', but with so many entrees to choose from, I opted for Chicken Butter Masala- a delicious Indian entree, along with some grilled veggies and Asian noodles. 

Buffets are so odd, aren't they?  One can eat literally everything under the sun at the same time (with the goal of not feel ill afterward!) As my mom used to say, when we did not want our peas touching our mashed potatoes on the plate," Eat it! It all goes to the same place!"

I was fortunate to dine at a table overlooking the giant Christmas tree and the Great Sound. After lunch, I could not wait to pay homage to the tree; it was the biggest one I have seen this year, although I must make it to Town Hall in Hamilton, before I go! As I walked along in the balmy air- nearly every tree and hedge was wrapped in lights- oh, how I wished it were dusk, so that I could see the magical display at night... 

As I walked through the hotel, en route to do some window shopping, I passed some large angels bearing trumpets. I love the symbolism of them; I could almost hear them playing.

Heading downstairs, I was delighted to see that there was a Christmas tree contest underway on behalf of a charity. Walking around felt like being in a little Christmas village- if only they were piping the scent of Spruce through the vents. It was obvious which tree was sponsored by Gosling's- topped with a pink seal, rather than a star.

The Executive Chef of the hotel, whom I had met at brunch, bought me a coffee at Wickets, on the lower level. I sipped it as I perused the winter spa prices and the stores on the mezzanine. Naturally, I am nostalgic about The Island Shop closing its satellite stores. This is truly an iconic store in Bermuda. I secretly wish that Barbara Finsness would open a ladies' boutique- with clothing and accessories in her aesthetic. She could design some fabulous garments, and/or collate them from overseas, for a year-round clientele. That's just me being greedy...

Following a well-chilled glass of Chardonnay in the Jasmine Lounge, I debated whether or not to take the Fairmont shuttle down to Horseshoe Bay for a beach walk. The wind was kicking up, and I was feeling tired from my stressful day (ha ha ha), so I elected to pass... No, if I am being honest, I saw a lady in the restaurant that looked just like my mom...I had to move my seat to avoid tears. That was the impetus for heading out!

Just like home, the days are shorter here during the winter. At dusk, one makes the debate- should I go out to eat dinner, or cook in? 

During the summer, I love to go out on the ferry at sunset; going to down for dinner is merely an excuse to ride the ferry at the most gorgeous time of day. But, in December, it seems that I have become easily deterred. When the wind is rustling outside, and the Christmas tree in the living room is lit up, and the wine is chilled, I just want my lounge wear! I have promised myself that I will indeed go out for supper at the Lighthouse, though- before I head back; this is not up for debate.

What's nice about being in Bermuda during the low season is the opportunity to do whatever I feel like doing- rather than being compelled to be at the beach- however tortuous that sounds! I also love the fact that the grass and vegetation are so lush this time of year- due to rainfall, in comparison to the hot summer. When I was here last, the golf courses were not as green as this photographer would like.

The weather has been generally warm during the day, with a bit of wind. Nights are quite a bit cooler, but nothing needed beyond a warm cardigan. Humidity still high, as always. 

I have to laugh at Bermudians (pardon me!); their blood is thinner, I think. The other day, when I went with the Lowe sisters to lunch, I wore a cotton dress and sandals. Jane came in an adorable outfit topped with a long glamorous fur hoodie, that reminded me of Santa Claus! I said, "What are you wearing, GIRL?!" 

Similarly, I boarded the ferry to town yesterday, wearing gauzy beach pants and a cotton tee, with a cardigan around my waist. I instantly met a lady, bundled up in a parka, who said, "Good Morning...You must be from Canada! You are not cold?" We both laughed, and wound up having a great conversation.

Actually, I don't blame Bermudians for putting boots on and wearing Fisherman sweaters, when it is 70 degrees outside. With the kind of heat and humidity they put up with, during the warmer months, let them think that "Baby, it's cold outside!"

Another absolutely charming aspect of being here the past week has been the sense of returning to a bygone era- a time when people shopped for Christmas by walking into  actual stores. Walking around Hamilton, there is hustle bustle. Folks are buying gifts on their lunch hours, pricing options, getting giftware and decorations; there is action!

The atmosphere takes me back to the days when my mom owned a gift store, called Whimseys, in the heart of East Hampton Village. Just like those days, the windows here are dressed up, and merchants are eager for your business. You have to scurry around discretely, lest your loved one seeing you buying their gift. This is how I remember Christmas, as a child. 

Shopping here has been a fun experience. Channeling 'my inner Oprah', I have even collected images of MY FAVORITE THINGS for a potential blog- even if it may seem quite narcissistic!? Perhaps my readership will enjoy a short glimpse into Bermuda retail- not because I have unrivaled taste- but because it might make you feel nostalgic for simpler times- and inspire you to shop along your Main Street! 

The past week has made me recall my grandfather, Stevan Dohanos', Saturday Evening Post Cover of the holiday shoppers at the bus stop at Christmas. It was dated December 13, 1952. The folks were all headed home, laden with holiday packages; one was even carrying a live goose in a basket, for supper! There was such a rich sense of merriment at Christmas, before Amazon.com. 

Here in Bermuda, it continues!

Art credit to Barbara Finsness; Pillow credit to A.S. Cooper & Sons (Hamilton)